Monday, March 16, 2009

Living and Learning, part I

Okay, so you all really cannot be surprised that it has been about 3 weeks since my last post because it is a pure reflection of my way of life--being very dedicated to something and then dropping the ball for a little bit. Then, when I feel guilty enough, I eventually turn back to it and give it my attention again. This is probably the case for most things in my life that require consistency, other than maybe friendships (although that is obviously up to your individual experiences with me... haha). That being said, a ton has happened these past few weeks, so I will try my best to summarize as extensively as possible.

SIDENOTE: My señora, Begoña, just walked out of the kitchen towards me holding up a giant strawberry (the first of the season!) looking kind of like that cute little mouse from that children's book saying "Ay, qué grande, ¿no?" (Wow, look how big this is!) to which I responded "¡Sí, es como una oreja!" (Yeah, it's like an ear!) My schedule this semester has a big chunk of time every day in the middle of the day which allows me to come home every day for lunch and have precious moments like these :)

Catching the Traveling Bug...
Recently, people keep telling me that I've been traveling a lot, but I still think that I definitely have not traveled as much as other people. However, I guess the outsider's perspective does have some objective truth to it, so yes, I am grateful to have gotten to travel recently! Although I still haven't left Spain yet, which I actually really love because this is a great country to explore because there is such a variety of culture here. I'll be leaving Spain in a couple of weeks though so that is exciting! More details on my future travel plans later in this entry.

Another thing: it's the people that make the place. This isn't a new concept for me, but it's certainly one that has been reaffirmed in my time here. As someone who values relationships a lot, that's what I've found is one of the greatest things about traveling: all the people that you meet just because of the nature of your status there as a tourist. You don't really have too much to lose because you are there to experience the place, squeezing as much in the little time you have there as possible. You have no obligations there, and every encounter has so much potential to change your experience. In a way, you're forced to let go of your inhibitions because that's the only way to have the best time: to dive in headfirst. (The life metaphors that you can make based on what I just wrote are so blatant that I'm not going to even spend time spelling them out :-P)
And then, of course, when traveling, second to the people is the food, on which you already know how much value I place from my Madrid entry!

>> Sevilla y Córdoba were absolutely amazing. I signed up for this trip as soon as I heard that my Islamic Art professor was going to be leading it, and I was not disappointed at all. Cordoba is about a 2 hour bus ride from Sevilla, so we went there as a day trip on the second day. It was a perfectly sunny weekend, and by the end of it, I realized that we had been learning so much throughout the day that my head almost wanted to burst with all the information! Both are much more of the small-town, typical Spanish cities that you imagine visiting as a tourist in Spain. At one point when I was walking around the streets of Sevilla, I felt like I was in Disney World with the bright, pastel-colored buildings, everyone walking around on the street, and especially with a tram. Later, because it was Carnaval (kind of a Halloween-esque Mardi-Gras) my friend told me that he actually saw a Mickey Mouse, which confirmed our previous impressions.

The theme of the trip was basically to actually see the religious tolerance and conflict of the Iberian Peninsula that we discuss in my class (The Iberian Peninsula: Cultures & Religions Through the Arts), and it was just so interesting because the architecture blatantly told that story. It's literally like a living picture book, where the pictures illustrate the (hi)story. For example, this image to the left is one that I took in the synagogue in Cordoba. There is the Christian cross under the Islamic carvings that are outlined with Hebrew writing. How much more obvious can you get about the religious heritage of Spain?

But my favorite building was the Great Mosque of Cordoba, that is now called the Cathedral of Cordoba (again, religious/political conquest!) We had been learning about the Mosque for the past couple of weeks in my class, and getting to see it with my professor guiding us was just amazing.

The more that I've been learning about the intentions of Islam in its architecture, the more I grow to respect its ideals. For example, the mosque is basically a huge area of space in which you can pray wherever you want because they consider God to be present in every part of it. The only form of direction that the building provides is the direction towards Mecca with the mihrab in the center of the qiblah wall. No one leads a service, there is no procession, it is just a direct encounter with God.
Then, also, you have Arabic calligraphy carved everywhere, which is just so beautiful and spiritual. I've learned from my readings for class that a reason why the Muslims use the writing a lot in their architecture as a form of a more intellectual encounter with God, so you can engage your mind in the act of devotion as well as everything else. It just makes your relationship with God such a more valued, precious thing.


I don't think I've ever seen such a stark contrast in my life than the one between the Great Mosque and the Cathedral that the Christians built smackdab in the middle of it when they conquered Sevilla. One telltale difference was in the lighting. The cathedral was flooded with sunlight whereas the mosque had much more subtle lighting, producing a much more tranquil atmosphere. There were also so many more images of people and ornate items in the cathedral whereas in the mosque you wouldn't really find very much iconic representations of things other than vegetation. It just made me think about the differences between what each religion chose to emphasize in their places of worship, and how as a Christian, I find myself appreciating the Islamic manner of encountering God a little more than that of the Catholics.

There are two things that my professor told us, once in class and once while on the trip, which really made an impression on me and I thought about them throughout our time in Sevilla and Cordoba.
--Sensuality: so when Carlos asked us in class "What is sensuality?", we were all a little taken aback by this question from our soft-spoken professor. But after we got over our immaturity, Carlos told us about how it is the noun to describe the sensation of the senses, which makes total sense (wow, that was not on purpose--how many different forms of the word can I use in one sentence??) He asked us that in the midst of our discussion on the difference between baroque Christian art and Islamic art. A lot of the Christian art that I've seen in churches and museums have been highly embellished and extravagant, and Carlos explained that the point of that art is to heighten your senses so that you are drawn into the art. Except what I realized is that my senses are more aroused when I am in the presence of Islamic art. There is something about the complicated simplicity that is depicted in Islamic architecture, and I experienced it so much throughout the trip. I would just get lost in the architecture that surrounded me, so much that every once in a while when Carlos would ask me a question because I was supposed to know the answer since I'd been studying for the past two weeks, I couldn't come up with the answer.

--The Weight of History: sounds like a book or something, right? When we were walking around the Cathedral of Sevilla, Carlos asked us the reason why we came to Europe and how we found it to be different from the United States. People gave their various responses, but then he gave us his own opinion--that in Europe, when you walk around and you visit places, you cannot help but feel the weight of history. And it is just so true. You just know how much influence the implications of the actions of the people before in Europe had on our present. Their history just goes so much further back in time than that of the United States.

So apart from the amazing history that we experienced in Sevilla, there is also amazing food and nice people to meet. Both nights that I was in Sevilla, we went to La Carbonería, which was this huge warehouse looking place turned into a bar/flamenco performing space. It was free entrance, and the drinks were both cheap and delicious!

I basically went on this trip on my own, even though I knew a few people, and it was great because it was a good group so I made some new friends, which is something I like to do in my spare time :) It was the type of trip that probably should've happened more towards the beginning of the semester instead of our scarring trip to the medieval, middle-of-nowhere towns of Besalu and Vic...

Okay, I'm going to write about my other trip to Granada now, but will continue in another post so as not to overwhelm you all ;-)

Living and Learning, part II


Since my last entry which I posted earlier today, I have actually changed locations and am currently sitting in a cafe very close to the Palau de la Musica Catalana which I went with a few friends for a concert on Valentine's Day. It was absolutely beautiful, both architecturally and acoustically speaking. We got tickets for 12 euro, which is such a bargain because if you want to just visit the concert hall, the entrance fee is 9 euro in itself! We had kinda crappy seats which you can actually see in the photo, they're the ones to the right on the side of the hall. But there were a ton of empty ones which had the view that this picture captures (mucho más mejor, ¿no?) so we switched during the intermission. The orchestra played pieces by Schumann and Beethoven, the names of which I don't remember right now, but when I told their names to Peter last night he immediately started humming them with his perfect pitch and then proceeded to send me a youtube video of the Schumann piece that I enjoyed very much (more than the Beethoven one.) My friends and I continued our Valentine's Day night with some cake, wine and cheese in our homestay--it really was quite divine.

SIDENOTE: Holy moly, this cafe I'm sitting in right now is incredible. I'm sitting here with my batido de fresa (strawberry milkshake), free wi-fi (wee-fee, hahaa), and then across from me are 5 TV screens with this thing called "Apple TV" that is absolutely INCREDIBLE. Right now, my roommate is listening to an NPR Podcast on the environment, and I am watching the 9th season of Friends, the one after Joey accidentally proposed to Rachel, which is really great because I only brought the 8th season and my roommates and I already finished it. Then there are a million songs and movies, (like Planet Earth!! and Princess Bride!! and Sex and the City!!) and even YouTube videos (like the laughing baby!!), what is this?!? This is my new favorite spot. Actually, Katie just said that this is like heaven. We are going to live here from now on. My friend brought me here a couple of weeks ago and it is so great! They need to bring this to NYC; specifically, Morningside Heights.
Okay, back to blogging...

Where did the travel bug take me next?

>> Granada: I caught the Southern Spain flu in Sevilla, and my roommates and I took the overnight train to Granada the next weekend (best decision ever, it was cheap, I was energized the next day, just do the Renfe =D) Coincidentally, the topic we were going to study next in my Islamic Art class was the Alhambra, which is the oldest Islamic palace in Europe and is Granada’s main attraction (pictured in the background of the photo above.) My roommates and I embarked on our journey to Spain's Islamic past on the first day (thank God we bought our tickets online before and for the Friday that we got there because our friends at the hostel were not so lucky--tickets for Saturday and Sunday were completely sold out!), but not without first stumbling upon a free walking tour given by a former Oregonian wanderer who decided to stay in Spain and live off of the tips he makes off of tourists at one of the hostels. It was quite entertaining--he actually recited a translated version of one of the poems written by the caliphs/emirs of the Alhambra--and was also probably completely full of BS--he recited a translated version of one of the poems written by the caliphs/emirs of the Alhambra.

I really enjoyed the Alhambra, but I think I liked the Great Mosque of Cordoba more, and one reason may be because I didn't have a guide or anything with me at the Alhambra who was explaining and teaching me things about the subtleties of the architecture at every moment. My favorite part of the Alhambra were the muqarnas which are the 3-D geometric shapes that line some domes like the one pictured to the right!

For some reason, our hostel was filled to the brim with British people, so my roommates and I learned a whole lot more about British culture than Spanish culture. It made me think about London in a whole different way, and made me actually want to go there! Before I had just thought that because London was in England, the origin of the English language that we all know and love so much in the US, it wasn't going to be that different from the states. But from our interaction with the Brits, I broke my previous misconceptions of the United Kingdom and now have every desire to go.

We also helped them to break some of their previous stereotypes and impressions of Americans, making a distinction between Americans like us and the very typical "Amurricans" (prounounced George W. style) who we have encountered a lot in our time here as well. We had some great conversations with the British people, especially one of the hostel staff, Chris, who taught us many different vocabulary words, like "Bollocks!" and "Blimey!" and "Fill up your boots!" and who wrote a declaration in the memory book in which my roommates and I make note of our precious moments that we were the nicest American girls he had ever met.

Similar to our adventures in Madrid, my roommates and I needed to satisfy our cravings for food from home, so in Granada, we found the most amazing Mexican restaurant! Chimichangas, enchiladas, quesadillas, frijoles, guacamole, margaritas... delicioso. However, because this lovely restaurant was still located in the great country of Spain, they weren't open for dinner until 8:15pm when we went there at 7:30pm. So, conveniently enough, there was a Chinese dollar/knick-knack store right next door where we entertained ourselves quite a bit by trying to find a birthday present for one of our new British friends at the hostel who was there with his friends to celebrate his 24th birthday. Naturally we settled on a Spanish-English coloring book, complete with Winnie-the-Pooh crayons and a festive purple bow. There was even a page that said "Feliz Cumpleanos" which we colored in to complete the gift. Needless to say, he was thrilled with the gift, and now we have a friend in London to visit, haha :)


But perhaps my most favorite part of Granada was when my roommate, Katie, and I climbed up the hill of the barrio, Sacromonte, across from the Alhambra that is covered with caves that are where the gypsies traditionally live. Then we found the old city wall and climbed up it and saw the most incredible view of the city. There were mountains, the Alhambra, the city, a monastery... it was gorgeous.

On our way back to Barcelona, we met an elderly Spanish man and his wife who were sending off their sister back to Barcelona. The old man was so cute and friendly, and really wanted to set one of us, any of us, up with his son. I might have seriously considered it because I loved Granada so much!

So next weekend will be the first time that someone from home is visiting me here (Sara and Lana, yaay), and then the weekend after that will be the first time I'm taking a trip outside of Spain (to Paris to visit Melanie while Akhila is there, hooray!) Then I will be headed to Costa Brava (northern coast of Spain), and then will be going to Hong Kong to see my parents and we'll be visiting Shanghai as well (which I am so excited about because I think that is my favorite Chinese cuisine of them all!!) All this traveling is really exciting and I'm just very excited about it :)